PLANET heating up, new grape varieties on the rise
Australia’s famously delicious red wines are a happy marriage of the right soil and climate, right? But what happens when things start to heat up? We did a little bit of investigating on your behalf. We’re not scientists. But the inescapable fact is that grapes ripen earlier in warmer climates. And early-ripened grapes simply don’t get a chance to develop the extraordinary, subtle complexities of flavour built over time.
Changing shape of soils
This hotter weather is not only affecting grapes, but also the soils on which they grow. Viticulturist Prue Henschke of $500 ‘Hill of Grace’ fame is protecting her priceless vineyards by adopting organic practices to help retain precious moisture.
Nothing new there…
Dr Richard Smart, the internationally renowned Tasmania-based viticultural consultant, waxes lyrical on the topic, having given his first paper on climate change and its possible impact on the New Zealand industry in 1988.
James Halliday, however, suggests climate change may not be bad news after all as higher levels of atmospheric carbon dioxide might actually ‘increase the absolute intensity of fruit flavour and colour’ in the grapes.
New grapes take shape!
What’s particularly interesting is the effect of this increasingly hot weather on grape selection. Take Tempranillo for example. A classic Spanish red grape, which is taking hold here with 386 hectares planted at last count, with the producers ‘La Linea’, Serafino and Nepenthe making fine examples.
Tapping in to Australia’s cultural heritage
Having such a melting pot of cultures in Australia helps, too. And is another reason why we see many exciting new grapes on the market. Coincidently, they are very well suited to the Australian climate and cuisine, too.
We have Victoria’s King Valley, known as ‘Little Italy’, where Italian staples are thriving. Think cherry-rich Sangiovese, fruity Barbera, plummy Marzemino, tar-and-roses Nebbiolo, dark Negromaro and inky Nero d’Avola. Taste berry-filled Brachetto from the Yarra and savoury Sagrantino from McLaren Vale. Argentina’s claim to fame, Malbec, is producing mouthwatering results in the coolish Frankland River and the warmer, off-the-beaten-track southern region of Langhorne Creek (Bleasdale’s speciality). France’s Pinot Meunier (normally found in classic Champagne blends) is one to watch, and Portugal’s dusty Touriga Nacional is being perfected by Stephen Pannell in the Adelaide Hills.
And that’s just a smattering of the reds! In white, enjoy Italy’s mouthfilling Greco di Tufo, ‘crème brûlée’ Fiano and the ‘little rascal’ Arneis. Or how about a lemony Savagnin (aka Savarro) for something different? (Soumah does a cracking example, just quietly).
Internationally, Australia has perhaps been seen as a ‘one trick pony’ doing Shiraz, and that’s about it. But how much has changed! Now, thanks to our myriad of cultures, and warming temperatures, wine drinkers have more wine choices than ever before – and we’ve only just started to scratch the surface!
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